About Kerala & the South...
Acres of vivid green palm trees, golden beaches, backwaters where the only sound is the occasional splash of the boatman’s pole, the Chinese fishing nets of Cochin, the trumpeting of elephants, the celebratory fireworks at Hindu festivals – these are the sights and sounds of Kerala that visitors will remember long after returning home.
Geography, Flora and Fauna
Covering an area of almost 40,000 square miles (102,400 Sqkm), with the Lakshadweep sea to one side and the Western Ghat heights to the other, Kerala is 375 miles (600 km) long, but only 47 miles (75 km) wide at its broades point. Between the coast and the higher mountains, Kerala’s fertile soil is well watered by the monsoon rains, which fall in two three –month periods, and by the 41 rivers that make their way westward from the mountains to the sea. The alluvial deposits form the rivers, combined with great coastal storms, have created Kerala’s most unusual natural feature, the famous backwaters, which stretch southwards from cranganore almost as far as Kovalam. Fortunately for Kerala, all its river ester aries have been bridged, as they are nowhere near as wide as Goa’s, some of which can still only be crossed by ferries.
Approximately 25 per cent of Kerala remains afforested and, in spite of the ubiquitous palm tree, more than 500 species of tree have been recorded. Rice and coconuts are the main crops, but on the higher ground grown the more valuable coffee, tea, cocoa, rubber, pepper and cardamom. Tropical fruits are also abundant, in particular pineapples and bananas is said to be good for the health. More exotic fruits such as mango, jackfruit and durian are in season throughout the summer, when few tourists are around to taste them. As throughout much of India, bougainvillea is the most commonly seen bloom, although fruit trees supplement this with their blossom in the early spring. In the hills around Munnar can be seen the spectacular flowering Kurinji, which carpets the uplands for miles around but only once every twelve years.
Kerala brims with exotic wild life; tigers, leopards, elephants, lion tailed macaque monkeys, ibex and many more, unfortunately few visitors see any of these secretive, mostly nomadic creatures, in spite of the abundant wildlife sanctuaries that have been established. Even monkeys rarely approach the tourist areas (apart from Periyar), and never the beaches, and the green parrot, so numerous in north India, apparently gives the south a miss. A visit to periyar gives the best chance of observing wildlife, particularly elephants, but even here sightings cannot be guaranteed. Most visitors have to be satisfied with cows, goats, blackcrows, egrets and sea eagles.
The People of Kerala, their language and religions
Although most Keralans are racially Dravidian, many of them still have traces of earlier, Austric blood, Anthropologists believe that the Austrries of Kerala came from the same stock as the Australian aboriginies, and some of their common distinguishing features, such as broad noses with flared nostrils, can be observed. Most Dravidians are darker skinned than the Aryans of north India and become even darker when exposed to sunshine, which they therefore tend to avoid.
A series of communist – run state administrations since 1957 are accredited with gaining for Kerala a literacy rate of 90% (India’s average is 50%) low infant mortality zero growth in population, and it is hard to disagree, no other believable reason having been proposed.
Hinduism
Many westerners come into contact with Hinduism for the first time during their holiday in Kerala, where around two thirds of the population is Hindu. It is one of the most complicated of the world’s religions, and much study and tuition is necessary before it can be properly understood.
Hinduism evolved form vedism, a form of nature worship introduced by the Indol Europeans to the Indus valley (now in Pakistan) when they settled there about 1,200 BC. Although is supported by many holy books, which are primarily narratives of epic events, Hinduism not a doctrinaire religion, and no all-powerful body exists to pronounce dogma. Because of this, Hindus are electric, tolerant and wide-ranging tin their beliefs. To precisely define a Hindu is, therefore, impossible; many followers claim that Hinduism is more a philosophy than a religion in the accepted sense, Hindi, incidentally, is the name of India’s official language and not directly connected with any religion.
Ayurvedic Medicine
Few visitors to Kerala will not be tempted, at least once, by the ayurvedic treatment centers, most of which are simply massage parlours. Ayur means the science of life, and ayurvedic treatment has been practiced in Kerala for more than 1000 years. Some swear by its efficiency, but others, particularly amongst the younger Keralans, regard it as little more than unscientific mumbo-jumbo. In the tourist areas of Kerala, however, ayurvedic is now very big business, and some resort hotels have been ;set up specifically for it. Courses can last up to a month, and various ailments are dealt with- at a not inconsiderable price. Enthusiasts regarding the prospectuses may well be persuaded that they can achieve immortality, as long as sufficient courses are taken!
Apparently, anyone may practice ayurvedic treatment without qualifications, and this means, of course, that a number of charlatans proclaim themselves to be specialists. Always ensure that the practitioner is bonafide. Most who by ayurvedic treatment will limit their experience to massage which, even if not particularly therapeutic, will always be relaxing. The recipient of the massage must be completely naked, which is why men will only massage men and women only women; this is not Thailand, and there is no likelihood of any hankey-pankey.
Apparently, the most responsive ailments to ayurvedic massage are rheumatism and arthritis. Warmed, medicated oil is applied to the body and gently rubbed into the skin by the palms of the hands. It is claimed that massaging improves the bollod circulation, and warming of the skin stimulates the nervous system. Deep (painful) massage is not part of the usual ayurvedic treatment, and massaging with feet is only necessary when special treatment of joints is required.
Food and Drink
Most visitors to Kerala from the United Kingdom will have had some experience of Indian cuisine, but very few of the dishes with which they are familiar will appear on the local menus. Never expect to see, for example, dhansaks, bhoonas, balti, **** or dishes described as chicken Madras or Bombay. Incidentally, Indians refer to drills as being spicy, not hot. Although beef can on occasions be found in the more expensive hotels, it is rarely available anywhere else. Mutton is also a varity in South India, and should always be avoided as it will be bony, fatty and tough. Pork will never be seen anywhere in India outside Goa. Non-vegetarians are therefore restricted to seafood and chicken, but this should prove no hardship as tasty and remarkably varied vegetarian dishes are a speciality of South Indian cuisine.
Fruit is much more plentiful and cheaper in Kerala than it is in Goa and fresh furit juices are never watered down (as they usually are in Goa).
Dress
Traditional dress varied depending on community, caste and gender. In some caste groups both men and women were naked from the waist up. Many peole wore a white mundu (Sarong – like garment) with women using a neryathu (cloth draped over the shoulder). Muslim women wore scarves, with some being in full pardah this custom continues in some Muslim communities to this day.
To day most women wear saris although the neryathu is still common. The salwar kameez (loose shirt and trousers) is popular with younger women. Working men wear coloured mundu while professional men usually wear the western – style suit, but in their homes they are more likely to dress in the more confortable mundu, and at the temple they wear a white dhoti (cloth worn around the wais that falls to the ankles)
It’s a good idea to wear clothes that blend in with local standards. Loose fitting shirts with sleeves and long shirts or trousers and best. Not only do they avoid offence, but they’re a foreigner, it’s best not to get into local gear unless you know exactly what you’re doing. Some foreign women purchase light cotton ‘skirts’ which are actually sari petticoats. Wearing them in the street is similar to going out in your underwear. Like wise some foreigners wear sarongs, which are actually the dress for particular events, such as festivals or pilgrimages. Unless you are part of the event it’s in appropriate to don the dress.
Foreigners who try to emulate the messes by wearing disly, turn clothes do not exactly earn much local respect.
Population & People
The second most populous country in the world after China, India’s population rose to 1 billion in August 1999, according to UN estimates. In all stales, men outnumber women (927 females to 1000 males), except in Kerala, which has some 1036 females to every 1000 males. Kerala’s population at the last census (1991) was 29 million and the estimated population for 1999 was 32 million. With a growth rate of 1.34%, this is lower than most states. Most of Kerala’s people (21.5 million) live in rural areas.
Lakshadweep has almost 52,000 people with a population density of about 1616 people per sq km (the national average is 273) Kerala, the most densely populated mainland state after Bangla (west Bengal) has some 750 people per sqkm, but in some areas this increases to 1800.
Kerala also has a small population of Adivasis (tribul people) some of whom have managed to preserve their cultural traditions. They live in the remove, hilly, forested regions of the Western Ghats. Nationally the highest proportion of Adivasis to the total state population is in Lakshadweep (94%) the lowest is in Kerala (about 1%).
Education
India’s Literacy rate has increased from 18% in 1951 to 52% in 1991. Kerala, with over 90% Literacy (almost 100% for younger adults), holds the top spot as India’s most literate state. Kerala boasts the largest expenditure of any Indian state, and for that matter many other countries, on education. Certainly on many measures- duration at school, number of educational institutions, enrolments in higher educational institutions, enrolments in higher education and results, Kerala attains impressive standards. But for Kerala this is no new Phenomenon. Education and once acquired education has helped maintain them.
Unfortunately high levels of education have not meant an improved economic situation for many Malayalis. At 84% of the national average per capital income, Kerala remains one of the poorest states in India.
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